Introduction
Burlington rests along the eastern shore of Lake Champlain, a body of water that divides Vermont and New York state. This small, college town is a trifecta of natural beauty, delicious food, and a prosperous art scene. It also has an endearing quirkiness and authentic bohemian vibe. It was clear to me that plenty of residents still subscribe to the 70s mentality of peace and personal liberation.
I think Burlington is the perfect city for foodies who also appreciate nature. So it makes sense why Dave and I ended up there in celebration of his birthday.
We had a lovely weekend away and were graced with warm weather, which was a pleasant surprise in early Spring. Plus, Burlington is only about a 4 hour road trip from our place near Boston, and the drive up through the White Mountains was idyllic.
Words to the Wise
Visiting the Ben and Jerry’s factory in Waterbury (near Stowe, VT) was on our wish list for this trip.
However, we waited until the last minute and learned the devastating truth that they were all booked up on factory tours for the entire weekend we would be there. Normally, the factory is open for tours every day from 10 am to 8 pm. For $7 USD, guests receive a 30-minute guided tour, samples, behind-the-scenes access to photo ops, and free reign through their gift shop.
If you’re interested, I recommend booking ahead. The factory releases tickets up to 2 weeks in advance. That way you won’t miss out like we did. (It pays to plan.)
Regarding Burlington, we brought our bikes from home and I recommend bringing yours or renting some. It’s an incredibly bike-friendly city. Plus, the greenway, which traces Lake Champlain, is one of the most beautiful walking/biking paths I’ve been on.
Now onto the itinerary!
Day 1: An Afternoon Arrival
11 am: Striking Out in Stowe
We were coming from Boston. Since we were driving nearly straight through Stowe, we decided to swing by a ski resort my brother was raving about. Neither Dave nor I ski, but we love hiking in and around ski resorts to experience mountain trails. However, the driving path up through the mountain, which is called Smugglers’ Notch, was closed for the season.
Our initial plan was to hike then tour the Ben & Jerry’s factory nearby. But we waited until the last minute and the factory sold out of tickets.
Since our Plan A and Plan B were fails, we drowned our sorrows at a nearby coffee shop called Perky Planet. I just got some water because I was feeling a little carsick. Dave tried their “Feel the Bern,” which was a coffee with cayenne and maple syrup. Unfortunately, he hated it (too spicy).
After that, we got the hell out of Stowe.
1 pm: A Quick Lunch
By the time we arrived in Burlington, securing lunch was our top priority. We grabbed sandwiches from Burlington Bay Market and sat out on the deck to soak in our first view of Lake Champlain.
We rented an AirBnB but couldn’t check in for a few hours so we had some time to kill.
2 pm: Biking the Burlington Greenway
This weekend we were graced with perfect weather, which was a pleasant surprise in early Spring. Plus, after a few hours in the car, Dave and I were both tired of sitting still.
With full bellies and an eagerness to move, we decided to bike along Lake Champlain. We got on the Burlington Greenway at Waterfront Park, which was right across the street from where we ate lunch. This trail was the inspiration for our trip, and it was pristine.
We rode North until we reached the Lake Champlain Causeway. We went about halfway down the causeway and had panoramic views of the water. Our ride was about 9 miles out and 9 miles back. The terrain was fairly flat and took us through parks, housing neighborhoods, and tree-canopied nature trails. There were plenty of spots to pull off and take in the views. Plus, it felt wonderful to be around other people enjoying one of the first tastes of warmth after winter.
4 pm: Check-in to Accommodation
After our ride, we dropped off our luggage and cooled down in our AirBnB for a few hours. We rented a house on King Street, which was in the South End region of downtown. It was a nice location, though Burlington is so small you could probably stay in any of the districts and walk everywhere.
If you want to be close to the water, Hilton Burlington Lake Champlain is a highly-rated low- to mid-price option. Hotel Vermont is locally-owned and has impressive sustainability and diversity initiatives, and The Essex Resort & Spa is a luxury option.
7 pm: Church Street Marketplace
We spent the evening exploring Church Street Marketplace, which is a pedestrian-only street full of shops, restaurants, and performers. It felt like the heart of downtown and was a great place to get a feel for Burlington’s vibrant atmosphere.
We got dinner at American Flatbread Burlington Hearth, which is a pizza place close to Church Street that focuses on locally-sourced ingredients. Their wood-fired pizza oven was in the center of the restaurant so we could watch the artisans making orders. Also, the dining area had beautiful, ambient lighting.
It probably comes as no surprise, but the food was amazing. We split a house salad and Margherita pizza.
Day 2: Self-Guided Food Tour
8:30 am: Morning Coffee
Burlington is known for its amazing coffee shops so we had a lot to choose from.
We considered Cosmic Grind or Tight Squeeze, but decided to start the day at Muddy Waters. If you’re looking for coffee later in the day, Radio Bean is an underground coffee shop and music venue. All four shops are near Church Street Marketplace. I made you a map. (You’re welcome.)
Muddy Waters was cozy and quirky. All the pictures I took were on my film camera so I don’t have any to share right now. But here are two shots courtesy of Dave.
It felt like we were in a wooden cabin that got taken over by plants, and adorable Muppet-esque statues were all over the place. We got a table and spent an hour or so in one of those conversations two people in love tend to fall into. Then, halfway through our drinks, I noticed the brick wall was stuffed with little hand-written notes. So cute!
Of course, we added one of our own. So if you ever end up at this coffeehouse, let me know if you find it.
10 am: Breakfast
We then walked toward the lake and had a delicious breakfast at The Skinny Pancake, which is right across the street from Waterfront Park.
This place had a wide selection of crepes; I got savory and, of course, Dave got sweet.
11 am: Art Installation
After breakfast we decided to walk the Greenway in the opposite direction of yesterday’s bike ride.
We headed South, following the Island Line Trail for about 2 miles until we reached the Burlington Earth Clock, which is a sundial made of 12 granite stones. This installation was spearheaded by a grassroots nonprofit called Circles for Peace.
According to Atlas Obscura, “The aim of the piece is to help people find a sense of inner calm by syncing with the rhythms and cycles of the natural world,” which is the most Burlington thing I’ve ever heard. We decided to heed that suggestion and found a nearby bench to view the water and reminisce about life (A follow-up to the morning’s coffee talk).
12 pm: Brewery
After our short siesta, we carried on and ended at Switchback Brewing Company, which is just a short walk from the Earth Clock.
I don’t appreciate beer the way Dave does, but he wanted me to tell you the Switchback Ale was “Great”. They had a delicious cider on tap, which is the lane I stay in at breweries.
2 pm: Eclectic Sightseeing
We then walked one block to - and this one is goofy - the world’s tallest filing cabinet.
I kid you not, it’s just a giant stack of filing cabinets in the middle of a parking lot.
We could not stop laughing.
After collecting ourselves, we made our way back toward the South End, stopping into whatever local shops and art galleries caught our eye.
Of note, we explored The S.P.A.C.E. Gallery, which had free admission, and bought a few second-hand books from Speaking Volumes, which had a huge inventory.
3 pm: The Best Lunch We’ve Ever Had
We grabbed a late lunch at what I consider the BEST sandwich shop I’ve ever been to: Four Corners of the Earth. This deli is unassuming, with just a small sign beckoning you from underneath a patio brewery. We would have walked right past it if we didn’t know to look. However, inside, magic awaits.
The restaurant has a subterranean feel and is covered floor-to-ceiling in locally-made art that might offend your grandma. Behind the counter is one man, and he spends a significant amount of time creating each of his masterpieces.
I would not recommend coming hungry because you will surely have a long wait time. It took about 45 minutes for us to get our two sandwiches. Also, this deli is cash only (There is an ATM inside). Luckily we had our new, second-hand books to keep us entertained while we waited. We got a booth and read, occasionally smiling up at each other as Slovakian pop music played in the background.
Inconveniences aside, these were the best sandwiches either of us had ever tasted. The owner blends his own spices and creates each order with such precision, I’m surprised he didn’t pull out a ruler and measure the height of each topping.
Dave got the Iraqi Turkey, and I got the Tuscan Prosciutto. Both were amazing, and we agreed that we would go back to Burlington for this restaurant alone.
7 pm: A Chill Evening
After that treasure of an experience, we went back to the AirBnB to unwind and both ended up falling asleep.
We woke up in time to walk to Waterfront Park and enjoy the sunset. We ordered maple Creemees, a Vermont classic, from a food truck at the park and watched the sun as it fell behind stunning views of Lake Champlain and the Adirondack Mountains beyond.
Waterfront Park had great energy, and it seemed like the whole city joined us this evening. Plenty of people were chilling out on the grass and sitting by the harbor.
Day 3: Departure
11 am: Brunch Before Hitting the Road
On the final day, we woke up late and got brunch at August First, which is right off Main Street. It looked like it was a mechanic’s shop in a previous life, very industrial with indoor and outdoor seating. I enjoyed the open-air feel and soaked in the aromas from their in-house bakery.
This struck me as the kind of place where, no matter what you ordered, it was going to be amazing. I had the polenta and eggs, and Dave got the grilled mortadella and egg on homemade focaccia. We also split what I thought would be a side order of breakfast potatoes they had on special, but that could’ve been a full meal on its own. This place is definitely a gem where lots of locals frequent.
We took one last stroll on the Greenway because we don’t like sitting after large meals. Then we packed up the car and drove back home to Boston.
Conclusion
And there you have it: Our short, yet filling weekend in Burlington.
It’s definitely a small city, and I feel like you can experience it all in a day or two. If you’re looking for good food, fresh air, and an excuse to slow down, I think this city is worth adding to your list of weekend trips.